Here is a "Black Label" Octa Automatique Réserve, rare by virtue not just of its more compact, 38mm platinum case but also its attractive monochrome appearance. Over a four or five-year period fewer than 20 such examples are believed to have been produced. The watch blends several characteristics coveted by Journe enthusiasts, some of which can no longer be found in the brand’s current catalogue of offerings. 

In 2001, the ‘Octa’ debuted as the first automatic movement to deliver 120 hours of precision timekeeping through reserved-power. Each ‘Octa’ movement is designed to incorporate fully-integrated complications within the same volume. Impressively, all variations within F. P. Journe’s entire ‘Octa’ collection are identical, both in diameter and thickness. 

This “Black Label” Octa Automatique Réserve combines extraordinary independent watchmaking with a rare, exclusive black dial. Created in 2008, these Black Label pieces were only offered to existing F. P. Journe clientele and were retailed through the brand’s boutiques. It's very likely that less that less than 20 examples were produced, over a 4-5 year production period, making this an especially rare variant that is hardly seen on the market.

As is characteristic of these Black Label pieces, the dial is rendered completely in black, with the markers and words ‘F. P. Journe - Invenit et Fecit’ inscribed above the subsidiary seconds in a contrasting white. The power reserve is placed on the left of the dial, with a date window above, and corresponding white date discs. Both the seconds sub-dial and power reserve are almost indistinguishable from the dial except for their respective markings the polished hands.

To add to the monochrome colour scheme, the watch is housed in a 38mm platinum case, the watch also bears F. P. Journe's signature ‘flat crown’ with a rope-like pattern. An interesting aspect of this timepiece further lies in the power reserve, as when winding, instead of the indicator heading from 0 to 120, it goes the other way, from 120 to 0. This was a deliberate choice on Journe's part, borrowed from marine chronometer clocks. The reasoning behind this lies in the idea that the power reserve indicator is not meant to tell you how many hours there are left, but instead how many hours since you have wound the watch.

This automatic, self-winding F. P. Journe calibre 1300.3 movement is made of solid 18k rose gold, with Côtes de Genève, constructed with 39 jewels and a shock absorber mechanism. It further features a straight-line lever escapement, and monometallic 4-arm balance with 4 timing weights, adjusted to 5 positions. It includes a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring, and an off-centre unidirectional 22-carat gold guilloche rotor.

Closer look

Condition

This 38mm F. P. Journe Octa Automatique Black Label is in good condition throughout. The case and lugs show signs of wear, consistent with usage over time. The watch was left unpolished during its most recent service with the manufacturer in 2023. There is a minor ding visible on the edge of the lower left lug, with light scuffs throughout the case - most notably on the bezel at the seven o'clock position - though only on the very surface of the material. The matte black dial, hands, and movement are free from any imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback are crisp and well defined.

The watch includes its original outer and inner boxes. The outer box features a sticker denoting the model number, case number, and original retail price of the watch. Two servicing invoices from F.P. Journe are included, dated to 2014 and 2023. A certified receipt features the 2008 date of purchase from the F. P. Journe boutique in Geneva. There is also an authenticity certificate from the manufacturer obtained in 2019.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by F. P. Journe in July 2023 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from  A Collected Man.